We had loosely talked about the Escalante River years ago but last year I followed it down on Google Earth and concluded this trip was a "must-do". I should explain that this is a river canyon in southern Utah USA running for some 90 miles and joins the Colorado River in Lake Powell which rises behind the Colorado's Glen Canyon Dam. The river is generally runnable for 3 weeks a year with a good snow pack. This year shaped up well with a 150% snow pack and we planned for launch 17 May. While only a low flow Grade 2-3 river, it is technical - the water is turbid and boulders barely covered are detectable only by the ripple pattern. A moment's inattention or mis-reading of the water was rewarded with a stranding.
In the event, seven of us (all bearded males over the age of 40) launched on the day in improving weather - although there was snow/rain/thunderstorms all around and predicted for the next 3 days. We had a variety of single inflatable kayaks, and Kris drove the 'bus' - a converted Oceanid RDC rescue raft. While he came in for a fair bit of ribbing about his choice of craft, it did allow the carrying of a decent kitchen and for that he was forgiven.
Yes, it was indeed a bit cool for a while but there were many sunny patches too. The river started out as a narrow muddy ditch in a reasonably open part of the canyon but was lined with Russian Olive trees - an invasive species with 2" thorns, the branches of which were a thicket overhanging the water. We quickly became proficient at fending with our paddle shafts and ducking down prostrate.
At Mile 6 we passed Boulder Creek which brought in a fair bit of water and paddling conditions immediately improved. We camped a mile or so below the confluence and fed well on steak and fresh veg.
Day Two. A stop for lunch and a chilly spot in the shade... Most of the party were in dry suits, I was not. While warm in my kayak, I was punished every time I stepped out until Day 3 when I conformed. After that it warmed up.
Days became sunny and hot. Here the boats are pulled up in the entrance to one of the many side canyons we hiked. Mike and John H. catching a nap.
Side Canyons are a source of awe. Wild flowers in the early summer were prolific. Cacti were in full bloom.
Side Canyons are a source of awe. Wild flowers in the early summer were prolific. Cacti were in full bloom.
Side canyons run for miles. Some are slots so narrow you can touch the walls on both sides, the sculpturing from millions of years of water and wind erosion in a dry climate and very old sandstone.
Hiking is addictive with great reward for climbing to over-looks. There is a surpising amount of greenery in the sandy canyon floors - predominantly poplar/cottonwoods with sparse undergrowth. There was vibrant poison ivy to 6' high in some places near water, especially in the second half of the trip.
A side canyon overlook.
Bus ahead. Kris was remarkable. In general he had no trouble keeping up with (or ahead of) the kayaks. Of course once in front, that damn Bus was hard to pass - the paddles are 9' long and you better keep clear. I guess 30 years of running technical whitewater makes one a bit cunning. The 12 days on the water were fantastic, every one with fresh and amazing views. When the rapids and boulder falls became more frequent over several days, even non-stop for periods, so much attention was needed to paddling that the only way to appreciate the grandeur was to pull over and stop. This wasn't always possible and there was way too much to see.
John navigating a rock-fall. This one was a strainer and we used a tight side channel with assist. There were two or three compulsory portages on the trip including a Russian Olive log-jam.
Morgan in the other Tasman. Small rapids like this were a surprising amount of fun. There is always the challenge to get through without bumping a rock!
High walls and massive overhangs are common, fantastic, and neck-bending. Features such as foot-wide cracks running dead straight through a 200' high block, going a hundred feet or two then lining up with a similar fault on the other side of the canyon were amazing.
Steven's Arch. The base is 600' directly above the river on both sides - the Escalante does a U-turn and goes right round it. We hiked a couple hours to reach this point above the canyon walls before turning back. It would have been another half-hour to reach the arch and nightfall was imminent. We still had an unknown amount of travel to find camp and this river was no place for night paddling. Paul and Todd are pondering the options.
To reach this overlook you have to climb up through a feature known as "the crack in the wall" above Coyote Canyon. Our boats are pulled up on the beach below. The entrance to Coyote is lower left. This part of the park is a popular hiking destination - reached through "the Crack". We were there just before Memorial Day weekend (a holiday weekend marking the start of summer) and there were already quite a few hikers. Stevens Arch, Escalante River is at top left.http://blog.incept.co.nz/2011/06/escalante-river-may-2011.htmlYes, it was indeed a bit cool for a while but there were many sunny patches too. The river started out as a narrow muddy ditch in a reasonably open part of the canyon but was lined with Russian Olive trees - an invasive species with 2" thorns, the branches of which were a thicket overhanging the water. We quickly became proficient at fending with our paddle shafts and ducking down prostrate.
At Mile 6 we passed Boulder Creek which brought in a fair bit of water and paddling conditions immediately improved. We camped a mile or so below the confluence and fed well on steak and fresh veg.
Day Two. A stop for lunch and a chilly spot in the shade... Most of the party were in dry suits, I was not. While warm in my kayak, I was punished every time I stepped out until Day 3 when I conformed. After that it warmed up.Days became sunny and hot. Here the boats are pulled up in the entrance to one of the many side canyons we hiked. Mike and John H. catching a nap.Side Canyons are a source of awe. Wild flowers in the early summer were prolific. Cacti were in full bloom.
Side Canyons are a source of awe. Wild flowers in the early summer were prolific. Cacti were in full bloom.
Side canyons run for miles. Some are slots so narrow you can touch the walls on both sides, the sculpturing from millions of years of water and wind erosion in a dry climate and very old sandstone.Hiking is addictive with great reward for climbing to over-looks. There is a surpising amount of greenery in the sandy canyon floors - predominantly poplar/cottonwoods with sparse undergrowth. There was vibrant poison ivy to 6' high in some places near water, especially in the second half of the trip.
A side canyon overlook.Bus ahead. Kris was remarkable. In general he had no trouble keeping up with (or ahead of) the kayaks. Of course once in front, that damn Bus was hard to pass - the paddles are 9' long and you better keep clear. I guess 30 years of running technical whitewater makes one a bit cunning. The 12 days on the water were fantastic, every one with fresh and amazing views. When the rapids and boulder falls became more frequent over several days, even non-stop for periods, so much attention was needed to paddling that the only way to appreciate the grandeur was to pull over and stop. This wasn't always possible and there was way too much to see.John navigating a rock-fall. This one was a strainer and we used a tight side channel with assist. There were two or three compulsory portages on the trip including a Russian Olive log-jam.Morgan in the other Tasman. Small rapids like this were a surprising amount of fun. There is always the challenge to get through without bumping a rock!High walls and massive overhangs are common, fantastic, and neck-bending. Features such as foot-wide cracks running dead straight through a 200' high block, going a hundred feet or two then lining up with a similar fault on the other side of the canyon were amazing.Steven's Arch. The base is 600' directly above the river on both sides - the Escalante does a U-turn and goes right round it. We hiked a couple hours to reach this point above the canyon walls before turning back. It would have been another half-hour to reach the arch and nightfall was imminent. We still had an unknown amount of travel to find camp and this river was no place for night paddling. Paul and Todd are pondering the options.To reach this overlook you have to climb up through a feature known as "the crack in the wall" above Coyote Canyon. Our boats are pulled up on the beach below. The entrance to Coyote is lower left. This part of the park is a popular hiking destination - reached through "the Crack". We were there just before Memorial Day weekend (a holiday weekend marking the start of summer) and there were already quite a few hikers. Stevens Arch, Escalante River is at top left.http://blog.incept.co.nz/2011/06/escalante-river-may-2011.html
